1. Does The Bisque Have Hairline Cracks, Restoration or Other Damage?
This is the obvious thing to inspect, but be sure to use a light when inspecting the doll's head. If possible, remove the wig and the pate and shine the light inside the doll's head. The head should be transluscent--any dark patches (other than plaster that sets the eyes) may indicate restoration work. Also, hairline cracks will show up better using a light in this manner. If you cannot for any reason look inside the doll's head (you should be allowed to--this is standard when purchasing an antique doll, and wigs are easliy reattached) then shine the light as close as possible all around the head for inspection.
2. Have the Eyes been Reset--AreThey Appropriate For The Doll?
It is very common for the eyes to be reset, and that is not necessarily a problem If, however, sleep or flirty eyes have been reset to be stationary, that should be taken into account for the price of the doll.
3. Is the Bisque Too Smooth--Is The Doll a Reproduction?
Yes, some antique dolls did have relatively smooth bisque, and some reproduction dolls don 't have very smooth bisque. BUT....as a general rule, modern reproductions of antique dolls have bisque as smooth as glass, and antique dolls generally have bisque that is rougher to the feel. If you have a doubt about the doll, you can also inspect inside the head--with older dolls, there is a patina of age and some dust/dirt, but again, this can be "reproduced" by an unscrupulous seller trying to pass a reproduction off as an antique. Legitimate reproductions also will have the artist's name and date incised in the doll's head, but, again, not so if someone is trying to pass a doll off as an antique.
4. If The Costume is Old, What Is the Integrity of the Outfit?
If the doll has an appropriate, old outfit, that is a big bonus for the value of the doll. However, make sure that the old outfit isn 't about to disintegrate beyond wearability--old silks can "melt" and shred, and can be the first thing to go. IF signs of shredding/melting are visible, ask yourself how much longer the outfit may last, or if you have the knowldege or skill to stabilize the silk. Also look for moth holes on woolens, and damgage to other fabrics. If an outfit is outstanding but the Integrity starting to be questionable, I'll more often than not still buy the doll--I just don't want to pay the price for a mint original outfit if I'm getting an original but falling apart outift.
5. If The Doll is Redressed, Is The Costume Appropriate?
If the doll has been redressed, is the costume appropriate to the doll (you don't want a flapper outfit on a 1870s China Doll, and you don't want a Bebe outfit on a French Fashion). If the style is appropriate, are the materials used to make the outfit appropriate. Under no circumstance should an antique doll have a polyester costume or a costume using polyester trim. If the doll you are inspecting has this, then figure the price of the doll as a nude doll, since she should be redressed.
6. Does The Doll Have An Appropriate Body?
This is another important consideration to the overall value of the doll. A dolly-face child shouldn't have her head on a bent-limb baby body, and likewise a baby head shouldn't be on a child body. A French bisque doll should have a French body, and a German bisque doll should have a German body. If you don't know body types well, start to study them or buy from a reputable dealer who will clearly disclose any inappropriately replaced bodies. We'll also have an article about antique bisque doll body types later this year.
Don't Miss Inspection Points 7 Through 10 In Part Two Of This Article!
